So where was I? Sorry, MIL, I wrote a long post on Tuesday morning and then connectivity problems prevented me from posting it, so then I got briefly dejected, but now I am back in action. I think I left off at Lake Nicaragua.
Our tour guides showed up on Monday morning, during breakfast, just to introduce themselves and agree on a time for the kayaking trip. Although both were impeccable English speakers, we couldn't understand their names. The next day, we ascertained that one was named Huascar, which we learned by making the kids say, "Como se llamo?" like 40 times. At 2:30, our gu
ides arrived in a pick-up truck driven by a man with an impressive mustache and large aviators. Very banana republic and I don't mean that in a Short Hills Mall kind of way. We piled in, the kids using the two functioning seat belts of this vehicle, dad and uncle hanging off the back, and left for the lake.
The lakefront is a park which appears totally abandoned, except for the dozens of people milling around in a non-recreational manner. At the entrance to the park, I saw a boy my son's age - say, 5 - hacking at a log with a machete.
Good idea? I thought, in a
Jay Wexler voice in my head.
At the end of the road in the park was a surprisingly well-appointed bar (it had a dance floor, basketball hoop and chickens), at the far end of which was a stack of kayaks. Initially, the guides wanted to put the kids in a little dinghy which they proposed to pull with their kayak, but we convinced them that the kids would probably spoil the idyllic trip by standing up and then drowning. That meant one kid went to Dad's kayak and the other to Carl's, and we set off.

We paddled our kayaks amid the little islands of Las Isletas, a chain of 300-400 islands formed by the eruption of Mombacho volcano, near Granada. The islands were thick little jungles, and people live on many of them. Several were clearly owned by regretful Canadians/Americans trying to sell them (from the For Sale/Se Vende signs); others are owned by Nicaragua's elite. We saw herons, egrets, sardines jumping from the water to eat mosquitoes, men fishing, men just randomly shooting their guns from boats into the woods, a pet spider monkey tied to a tree, horses, and electrical wires spread 30 feet over yards and yards of open water. It was both beautiful, easy, peaceful and mildly terrifying. Here's Mombacho, viewed from the Lake.

Just as our arms were beginning to quiver from exhaustion (mine at least), we pulled back into our "boat slip" at the bar, where we were greeted by two boys who had a jelly jar of camerones in muddy water. They were kind enough to let Liam hold one of them. He was thrilled to have it wriggle in his hand, and he wanted to help them catch more.
Soon, though, we were on our way back into Granada; this time, I got to hang in the bed of the pick-up. Huascar told us that the park hosted very popular motorcross events every Sunday, and that while baseball was the number one sport, "high ball" is the number two sport in Nica, and tossed his hand to his mouth to show he meant drinking. His friend said, "La Cana . . . yes, high ball is the one you play best" and we all laughed.
So that gets me through the first 24 hours of our visit. Since we stayed there for a full week, its hard to imagine that I can keep going at this level of detail. I will see what I can do but I will need to pick up the pace here or else I will forget everything.

Oh, and these are the nests of a colony of oropendola, a bird with a tail that is gold (oro) who builds a nest like a pendulum. They were very swooping in and out of the trees.