There was a crowd of people massing around the middle of the strand that is Stinson Beach, far more than you usually see at Stinson, but an especially large group for a Monday morning and never this size on the Seadrift side of the beach. News had traveled quickly along the beach that there was a whale in the water, so the kids and dads took off running towards the crowd.
I had inconveniently just put bacon in a pan and had an egg ready to cook. I ran from the kitchen to the dunes twice before deciding to eat my damn breakfast. I couldn't sit down to do it though. I threw the egg on some toast, and wrapped the bacon in a paper towel, checking to see that the stove was off (twice, because I was so excited) before bolting out the door. I jogged a bit while I ate but as soon as I could, I took off running. Within a half mile - or halfway to the whale - I caught up with my friend Lisa and walked with her. From there, you could see a massive fin jutting out of the water and not much else. There were rescue vehicles and caution tape by now, and about 100-150 people. It was a parade atmosphere. Everyone was excited and anxious and repeating whatever they had heard from the fireman and park ranger who were working the line, telling everyone to move back. They didn't know much.
The whale looked like it was moving its tail, but if you watched it all closely enough if seemed equally likely that the movement was coordinated by the waves rolling in. The whale was in 3 feet of water, and the waves were about 2-3 feet tall. The Marine Mammal Center arrived around the same time I did but spent what seemed like an interminable amount of time discussing the whale with each other, rather than rescuing the whale, which is what the crowd wanted. I don't know how we thought these four people in a Toyota 4 Runner were going to rescue a whale. I suspect most people hoped, as I did, that the whole crowd would be enlisted to push the mammal back out to sea. Big Miracle on Stinson Beach. Finally, Dr. Shawn Johnson, head of the MMC veterinary team, waded into the water and determined that the whale had died. I suppose that had been obvious to him from the shore, which is why there hadn't been undue haste to jump in the path of a 10 ton animal being propelled by the surf. Dr. Johnson hosted a quick "lecture" (as the fireman called it) to tell us that this was a juvenile fin whale, that it had died and that they would be doing a necropsy once the tide had receded.
Not having been assigned the volunteer assignments we all wanted, many of us wandered home. Our kids pulled on some wet suits and hit the beach.
After lunch, I headed back to the whale to see if the necropsy had begun. The tide hadn't gone out far enough, and efforts to bring the whale further up the beach were impaired by the sheer size of the whale. A couple of people have asked me, "why didn't they haul it back out into the ocean?" and looking at this whale, I would have to say, "with what?" They tried to pull it up the beach with a bulldozer and all it did was snap the rope and abrade the whale's tail.
That's a view of the whale's back, or top, side. He's lying on his right side. He was 42 feet long, and a really beautiful dark, unblemished gray. Here's his underside.
This was taken around 2:00 pm. The necropsy started about an hour later, when scientists began sharpening knives and taking measurements. One thing that seemed apparent was that they didn't have a lot of practice doing this. It didn't seem ham-fisted or anything, but watching a scientist sharpen a machete is a painful thing to see. She clearly didn't do it very often, and it seemed possible that she was doing more to blunt it than sharpen it. Otherwise, they worked pretty deliberately and certainly not at a pace intended to please the crowd (which was appropriate, obviously). Anyhow, here are the necropsy photos, with a little commentary from me.
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First cuts to the underside |
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shark bait |
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The excavator that Lonnie brought down from Pt. Reyes Station to dig a hole |
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A nice shot of the intestines |
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A view from the top |
I think this last picture is one of the most amazing. That dark red area in the cross-section is pure muscle, the same size in diameter as a man's leg.
The whale itself was the best part. The worst part: some of the inane, science-ignorant conversations I overheard. In separate conversations, I had to explain to different, grown men that juvenile whales nurse from their mothers. To wit:
Me: they are going to see if there's milk in his stomach.
Dude: isn't it male?
Me: yes, he was still nursing.
Dude: Still nursing?! He was one!
Me: yes, it takes a lot of calories to gain 30 tons.
Dude: how do whales nurse? Do whales have tits?!
Me: mammary glands
I also overheard a ten year old boy ask where the whale's gills were. I also lamented the older-lady volunteers who were using horrible body mechanics to lift massive slabs of blubber to the burial area. One lady lost her balance and actually fell into the whale's body cavity. I'm sure that memory won't leave her soon.
Here's a great video clip my son shot, capturing another excellent conversation I am having with a friend.
The second worst part was leaving the whale to go back to normal life where I am not an imaginary marine biologist. When I went back later that evening, the excavator was just finishing the job of filling a massive hole, and the exhausted looking researchers were getting back into their 4 Runner to head back to the Sausalito.
So how does this story end? The MMC has
posted an update on its website with some information about how the whale might have died. I went so far as to see if the Berkeley Extension has a Marine Biology class I might take (they do). We visited the grave one last time on Friday, and saw viscera bubbling up from a hole within the storm fencing they put up. I hope I never see anything like this ever again.